e bottom of the Cone, our guide led us to
the north side, and into a region that did begin to look like business.
The wind drove all the smoke round there, and we were half stifled with
sulphur fumes to begin with. Then the whole ground was discolored red
and yellow, and with many more gay and sulphur-suggesting colors. And it
actually had deep fissures in it, over which we stepped and among which
we went, out of which came blasts of hot, horrid vapor, with a roaring
as if we were in the midst of furnaces. And if we came near the cracks
the heat was powerful in our faces, and if we thrust our sticks down
them they were instantly burned; and the guides cooked eggs; and the
crust was thin, and very hot to our boots; and half the time we couldn't
see anything; and we would rush away where the vapor was not so thick,
and, with handkerchiefs to our mouths, rush in again to get the full
effect. After we came out again into better air, it was as if we had
been through the burning, fiery furnace, and had the smell of it on our
garments. And, indeed, the sulphur had changed to red certain of our
clothes, and noticeably my pantaloons and the black velvet cap of one of
the ladies; and it was some days before they recovered their color. But,
as I say, there was no sense of danger in the adventure.

We descended by a different route, on the south side of the mountain,
to our horses, and made a lark of it. We went down an ash slope, very
steep, where we sank in a foot or little less at every step, and there
was nothing to do for it, but to run and jump. We took steps as long as
if we had worn seven-league boots. When the whole party got in motion,
the entire slope seemed to slide a little with us, and there appeared
some danger of an avalanche. But we did n't stop for it. It was exactly
like plunging down a steep hillside that is covered thickly with light,
soft snow. There was a gray-haired gentleman with us, with a good deal
of the boy in him, who thought it great fun.

I have said little about the view; but I might have written about
nothing else, both in the ascent and descent. Naples, and all the
villages which rim the bay with white, the gracefully curving arms that
go out to sea, and do not quite clasp rocky Capri, which lies at the
entrance, made the outline of a picture of surpassing loveliness. But as
we came down, there was a sight that I am sure was unique. As one in a
balloon sees the earth concave beneath, so now, from