little queer. It was a fancy
prevalent in Hamlet's day. We had the English service in the Villa Nardi
in the evening. There are some Englishmen staying here, of the class one
finds in all the sunny spots of Europe, ennuye and growling, in search
of some elixir that shall bring back youth and enjoyment. They seem
divided in mind between the attractions of the equable climate of this
region and the fear of the gout which lurks in the unfermented wine.
One cannot be too grateful to the sturdy islanders for carrying their
prayers, like their drumbeat, all round the globe; and I was much
edified that night, as the reading went on, by a row of rather battered
men of the world, who stood in line on one side of the room, and
took their prayers with a certain British fortitude, as if they were
conscious of performing a constitutional duty, and helping by the act to
uphold the majesty of English institutions.

PUNTA DELLA CAMPANELLA

There is always a mild excitement about mounting donkeys in the morning
here for an excursion among the hills. The warm sun pouring into the
garden, the smell of oranges, the stimulating air, the general openness
and freshness, promise a day of enjoyment. There is always a doubt as
to who will go; generally a donkey wanting; somebody wishes to join the
party at the last moment; there is no end of running up and downstairs,
calling from balconies and terraces; some never ready, and some waiting
below in the sun; the whole house in a tumult, drivers in a worry, and
the sleepy animals now and then joining in the clatter with a vocal
performance that is neither a trumpet-call nor a steam-whistle, but an
indescribable noise, that begins in agony and abruptly breaks down
in despair. It is difficult to get the train in motion. The lady who
ordered Succarina has got a strange donkey, and Macaroni has on the
wrong saddle. Succarina is a favorite, the kindest, easiest, and
surest-footed of beasts,--a diminutive animal, not bigger than a
Friesland sheep; old, in fact grizzly with years, and not unlike the
aged, wizened little women who are so common here: for beauty in this
region dries up; and these handsome Sorrento girls, if they live, and
almost everybody does live, have the prospect, in their old age, of
becoming mummies, with parchment skins. I have heard of climates that
preserve female beauty; this embalms it, only the beauty escapes in the
process. As I was saying, Succarina is little, old, and