e. They laughed
and talked with each other in excellent spirits; and one varlet near the
coffin, who had slipped off his mask, winked at me repeatedly, as if to
inform me that it was not his funeral. A masquerade might have been more
gloomy and depressing.

SAINT ANTONINO

The most serviceable saint whom I know is St. Antonino. He is the patron
saint of the good town of Sorrento; he is the good genius of all sailors
and fishermen; and he has a humbler office,--that of protector of the
pigs. On his day the pigs are brought into the public square to be
blessed; and this is one reason why the pork of Sorrento is reputed so
sweet and wholesome. The saint is the friend, and, so to say, companion
of the common people. They seem to be all fond of him, and there is
little of fear in their confiding relation. His humble origin and
plebeian appearance have something to do with his popularity, no doubt.
There is nothing awe-inspiring in the brown stone figure, battered and
cracked, that stands at one corner of the bridge, over the chasm at the
entrance of the city. He holds a crosier in one hand, and raises the
other, with fingers uplifted, in act of benediction. If his face is
an indication of his character, he had in him a mixture of robust
good-nature with a touch of vulgarity, and could rough it in a jolly
manner with fishermen and peasants. He may have appeared to better
advantage when he stood on top of the massive old city gate, which the
present government, with the impulse of a vandal, took down a few years
ago. The demolition had to be accomplished in the night, under a guard
of soldiers, so indignant were the populace. At that time the homely
saint was deposed; and he wears now, I think, a snubbed and cast-aside
aspect. Perhaps he is dearer to the people than ever; and I confess that
I like him much better than many grander saints, in stone, I have
seen in more conspicuous places. If ever I am in rough water and foul
weather, I hope he will not take amiss anything I have here written
about him.

Sunday, and it happened to be St. Valentine's also, was the great
fete-day of St. Antonino. Early in the morning there was a great
clanging of bells; and the ceremony of the blessing of the pigs took
place,--I heard, but I was not abroad early enough to see it,--a
laziness for which I fancy I need not apologize, as the Catholic is
known to be an earlier religion than the Protestant. When I did go out,
the streets were