ually, some American family had long
resided, and experienced a content and happiness not to be felt out of
Germany.

I spent some days in calling upon the worthy frauen who made these
alluring offers. The visits were full of profit to the student of human
nature, but profitless otherwise. I was ushered into low, dark chambers,
small and dreary, looking towards the sunless north, which I was assured
were delightful and even elegant. I was taken up to the top of tall
houses, through a smell of cabbage that was appalling, to find empty and
dreary rooms, from which I fled in fright. We were visited by so many
people who had chambers to rent, that we were impressed with the idea
that all Munich was to let; and yet, when we visited the places offered,
we found they were only to be let alone. One of the frauen who did us
the honor to call, also wrote a note, and inclosed a letter that she had
just received from an American gentleman (I make no secret of it that
he came from Hartford), in which were many kindly expressions for her
welfare, and thanks for the aid he had received in his study of German;
and yet I think her chambers are the most uninviting in the entire city.
There were people who were willing to teach us German, without rooms or
board; or to lodge us without giving us German or food; or to feed us,
and let us starve intellectually, and lodge where we could.

But all things have an end, and so did our hunt for lodgings. I chanced
one day in my walk to find, with no help from the advertisement, very
nearly what we desired,--cheerful rooms in a pleasant neighborhood,
where the sun comes when it comes out at all, and opposite the Glass
Palace, through which the sun streams in the afternoon with a certain
splendor, and almost next door to the residence and laboratory of the
famous chemist, Professor Liebig; so that we can have our feelings
analyzed whenever it is desirable. When we had set up our household
gods, and a fire was kindled in the tall white porcelain family
monument, which is called here a stove,--and which, by the way, is
much more agreeable than your hideous black and air-scorching cast-iron
stoves,--and seen that the feather-beds under which we were expected to
lie were thick enough to roast the half of the body, and short enough to
let the other half freeze, we determined to try for a season the regular
German cookery, our table heretofore having been served with food cooked
in the English style with