ture resemblance of the wild mountains near Valence, but more
savage and fantastic, presenting the appearance of the sea turned to
stone in its wildest state of commotion, or in the powerful words of
Manfred,

"The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam
Frozen in a moment; a dead whirlpool's image."

[Footnote 41: Vide Cooke's Views.]

[Footnote 42: The celebrated fair of Beaucaire, which may be almost
called the carnival of the Mediterranean, is held in this meadow
yearly.]

[Footnote 43: Vide Cooke's Views.]

[Footnote 44: For an account of the Tarasque, or fabulous dragon, which
infested the country, and the ceremonies commemorative of it, see Miss
Plumptre's tour. The name of Tarascon, she says, is derived from this
animal.]

[Footnote 45: I do not except even John Bull's favourite yew peacocks
and dragons, at least when they decorate the garden of a poor man.]

At the foot of one of these barren gray rocks, which, from its shape and
perforation, exactly resembles the barbacan and gate of a castle, St.
Remy is situated. The Hotel de la Graille, where we took up our abode
for the night, was as comfortable as most French inns, excepting those
in the large towns: and though the _gros chien de menage_, for whose
company we always stipulated, was perfectly agreeable, and of a gigantic
size, yet he was by no means, as is frequently the case, the only
civilized person in the house. This _gros chien du menage_, be it known,
is a person of great responsibility in a Provencal inn, as well as of
formidable strength and size, and is entrusted for the night with the
care of the remise, and all the live and dead stock, horses, carriages,
and waggons, which it contains; and a more effectual guard cannot well
be: his manners during the day are very mild and gentleman-like, as if
he acted as master of the ceremonies; and he generally steals in at
supper-time, as if to inform you that all is safe, and to claim a pat of
your hand, and a pairing of your fricandeau in acknowledgment of his
professional care. The greasy landlord will stand staring at his kitchen
door, the landlady will not be very attentive to your accommodation when
you are once safely housed, and the dirty, bare-legged fille will poison
you with steams of garlic; but the _gros chien_ will always make amends
to a genuine lover of dogs.

May 21.--We were tempted by a beautiful morning to rise somewhat before
four o'clock, in order to visit the Roman ruins