singular in parts. We
particularly remarked a small village built round the base of one of
those castellated rocks which abound in the neighbourhood of Beaucaire,
as also a singular defile near the post-house of La Pin. The high gray
rocks which inclose this spot appear as if seared to the quick with
drought, and for some distance leave room only for the road and a narrow
riband-shaped line of rich cultivated ground of a few yards in breadth;
which is again succeeded by a small village, whose houses completely
block up the defile. From this point you creep and wind gradually to the
hill called La Viste, from which we were instructed to expect the most
celebrated view of Marseilles. It fully equals all that can be said of
it; and, though inferior to the bays of Naples and Genoa, possesses
features which strongly remind one of both. On reaching a wood of stone
pines on the summit of the hill, the bay of Marseilles bursts on you all
at once, in an immense sheet of bright blue, studded with sunny islands,
among which the Chateau d'If, a little spot fortified to the teeth, and
commanding the entrance of the inner port, is most conspicuous. On
advancing a little further, the shores of the bay are seen lengthening
themselves into a half moon, one horn of which is formed by a line of
mountains of no remarkable outline, and the other by a more lofty chain,
communicating with Mont St. Baume and Mont Victoire, and the out-post of
which is formed by a lofty and barren cape jutting into the sea at the
back of Marseilles. The town itself possesses no remarkable feature from
this point, except the fort of Notre Dame de la Garde, which crowns and
commands it at the top of a lofty hill; but its environs, which rise in
an amphitheatre from the sea to the adjoining mountains, are one
perpetual succession of white villas, vineyards, orange, lemon and
fruit-tree groves, and every thing in short which can enrich and enliven
a prospect. Too much certainly is not said by the French of this
celebrated Viste, which deserves at least a quarter of an hour's
attention; and there are one or two decent cabarets on the top of it,
the resort of the Marseillois for cool air and refreshment, where the
horses can be baited while a survey or a sketch is taken.

After the descent of this hill, nothing worth notice occurs, till you
have passed a long and uninteresting suburb, and enter Marseilles by the
Cours, the first effect of which is striking, as it runs