ing idea of height and space combined, than any other prospect with
which I am acquainted; though not on the whole so imposing as the first
glimpse of the Swiss side of the Simplon. The eye is carried directly
over two or three lower peaks of the Col, grinning with snow drifts, to
the great range of Alps south-west of Mont Cenis, which appear hanging
in mid air like the domains of a cloud-king; their jagged and glittering
tops distinctly defined, but their bases melting into the hazy abyss
which the plain of Piedmont presents.

As far as I can estimate, we were about five hours in performing the
ascent from Tende. Two more hours took us to Limone, at a jog trot, down
a zigzag road, less abrupt in its turns than that on the other side. At
Limone the post-road to Turin begins. The post-house is a tolerably good
inn: the douaniers, the most troublesome we had yet met with, refusing
to compound for the customary donation, and asking for money when their
search was ended. We had, therefore, the sweet revenge of first watching
them as pick-pockets, and next refusing them as beggars.

To Coni fifteen miles; the first seven or eight through a beautiful
valley fringed with chestnut woods; every thing, however, appeared
diminutive, as our eyes had not yet recovered the strain which the
enormous scenery of the Col had occasioned. In this fine open valley,
goitres abound as much as near Sion; this malady, therefore, cannot be
attributed, as some think, to the stagnation of air.

Coni, a neat arcaded town, deserves mention for the beauty of its
situation, and the fine Alpine panorama which it commands. The
glittering pinnacle of Monte Viso, is the most striking feature through
this and the following day's journey.

June 5.--Breakfasted at Savigliano, a large flourishing town; slept at
Carignan, and reached Turin to breakfast next day.

June 6.--The best of Turin is seen in the general survey of the town and
its princely environs, particularly on the Moncaliere side. Our
principal amusement was derived from Zuchelli's masterly performance at
the Opera Buffa. The plot of the piece turned partly on the
discomfitures and discontents of a supercilious English dandy, which
part this singer performed with an immoveable countenance, which kept us
in a roar of laughter, his grave rich toned bass voice giving a double
effect to the solemn absurdity of the character. For the sake of
avoiding open offence to our countrymen, the hero was sty