led a Danish
count; but the portrait was perfect to the very tail of the coat, and
could not be mistaken, and the countenances of some of his prototypes in
the next box showed, that the satire, fair and gentlemanly as it was,
cut deeper than the awkward puppet-show of "Les Anglaises pour rire."
The Neapolitan character was handled more unmercifully in the part of a
guttling, fulsome old coxcomb, as cowardly as the Dane was quarrelsome.

Milan, its inimitable cathedral, and its other curiosities, have, I am
aware, been well-trodden ground for some years. No one, however, appears
to notice the courier's little spaniel in the Archduke Rainier's hall,
who has watched for his master's return from Russia more than a year
without stirring from his mat, and whom the good-natured Viceroy feeds
and protects without allowing him to be disturbed. I hope he will find a
place in some future animal biography, for the credit of his species. As
to the splendid Fete Dieu, which we just arrived in time to witness,
with its military, civil, and ecclesiastical pageantry,--the beggar-boys
plucking the guttering wax from the long tapers of the priests, and the
priests occasionally singeing their noses in return, I could no more
undertake to describe, than to sort a bag of gaudy feathers of different
birds.

The best companion over the Simplon with which I am acquainted, is a
little French tract, written, I think, by a M. Mallet, and touching
slightly, but sufficiently, on all subjects of interest connected with
that stupendous route. The short account which it gives of the life of
Cardinal Borromeo may be read through while walking up the hill of Arona
to visit his colossal statue, which deserves a higher rank than perhaps
it holds, either as a work of art or an achievement of labour. The
attitude of the figure is easy and graceful, and the artist has managed
the flowing cardinal's robe with great taste. There is also an
expression of benevolence and majesty in the countenance and extended
hand, suitable to one's conceptions of this apostolic character, who
seems looking and waving a blessing on his native Arona. The height of
the figure and pedestal is stated at 104 feet; but the effect of its
grace and proportion renders this difficult of belief, until you look
back at the distance of two miles on the road to Baveno, and see it like
a walking giant overtopping the neighbouring woods by more than the head
and shoulders.

With this noble s