dormitory of the prisoners, and not in a presentable state; but we saw
nothing which recalled any idea of feudal magnificence. The same
description which serves for the tower of Westburn-flat, in the Black
Dwarf, allowing for the difference of size and finish, would exactly
suit the cubical shape and high blind walls of this castle, which
probably was intended to serve similar purposes in the days of club law.
Its durability is not so remarkable as the fresh colour and sharpness of
every part of the carving, and it might pass for a modern gothic edifice
of twenty years standing, but for the solidity and frowning grandeur
which characterise it. The air of Provence appears more clear and dry
than even that of Italy, and to be more favourable to the preservation
of old buildings. Its clearness certainly is remarkable, particularly in
diminishing the effect of distance; and on Monday night, at Montpelier,
I recollect that we could plainly discover with the naked eye the stars
of the milky way, which are commonly imperceptible without a glass. I
cannot say that our route from Tarascon to St. Remy was well calculated
to show the climate of Provence in this light. The whole eleven miles
were performed in almost a perpetual storm of rain and wind, which
prevented our seeing much of the rich plain we were traversing. What we
could see, however, was pleasing: every inch teemed with olives, vines,
mulberries, corn, onions, and lucerne. We remarked many sheep sheared in
a comical manner, with two or three tufts, like pincushions, running
down the centre of their backs, and painted red. Circumstances like
these, though trivial, are or ought to be pleasing, as they indicate
that something like comfort or leisure exists, and that the farmer's
business is partly become an amusement. A needy peasant, pinched by high
rents or bad seasons, would have but little inclination to ornament his
favourite wether in this absurd manner; and though Forsyth's remark is
very true, that a peasant never attempts to become fine but he is
hideous, such hideous attempts[45] are grateful to the mind's eye from
the cheerfulness and play of mind which they indicate. Within a little
distance of St. Remy the storm cleared sufficiently to enable us to
discern the line of hills to the right, the foot of which we were
skirting, and which border the great plain of Avignon to the south.
There is something very singular in the outline of these rocks, which
are a minia