n his
appearance, but really a most respectable man in his deportment and
character, and in his youth had been the best bull-fighter the village
had ever produced.

He began with the dance called the toros. The brother of the padrecito
acted as master of the ceremonies, and with a pocket-handkerchief
called out the ladies one after the other, until every dancing lady
present had had her turn.

He then took the patron's place, the patron acting as Bastonero in his
stead, and called out again every lady who chose to dance. It was a
_bal champetre_, in which no costume was required, and the brother of
the padrecito, who had opened upon us, as alcalde elect, with a black
dress-coat, white pantaloons, and fur hat, danced in shirt, drawers,
straw hat, and sandals, pieces of leather on the soles of his feet,
with cords wound round nearly up to the calf of the leg.

When he had finished we were solicited to take his place, which,
however, though with some difficulty, we avoided.

I have not yet mentioned, what is a subject of remark throughout
Yucatan, and was particularly manifest at this ball, the great apparent
excess of female population. This excess was said to be estimated at
the rate of two to one; but although it was an interesting subject, and
I was seeking for statistical information which was said to exist, I
could not obtain any authentic information in regard to it. I have no
doubt, however, that there are many more than one woman to one man,
which the men say makes Yucatan a great country to live in. Perhaps
this is one reason why the standard of morality is not very high, and
without wishing to reflect upon our friends in Nohcacab, as this was a
public ball, I cannot help mentioning that one of the most personally
attractive and lady-like looking women at the ball was the amiga of a
married man, whose wife had left him; the best dressed and most
distinguished young lady was the daughter of the padre who died in one
of our rooms, and who, strictly speaking, ought never to have had any
daughters; and in instances so numerous as not to be noticed by the
people, husbands without wives and wives without husbands were mingling
unrestrainedly together. Many of the white people could not speak
Spanish, and the conversation was almost exclusively in the Maya
language.

It was the first time we had appeared in society, and we were really
great lions--in fact, equal to an entire menagerie. Whenever we moved,
all eyes