atform in front were filled with Indian women dressed
in white, and near the door was a group of ladies, with mantas and
veils, and the costume of the senoras in the capital. The morning air
was fresh and invigorating; there were no threatening clouds in the
sky, and the sun was pouring its early beams upon the scene of
rejoicing. It was a great triumph of principle, and the humble mules
which trod their daily circle with the beam of the noria, had red
ribands round their necks, hung with half dollar and two shilling
pieces, in token of rejoicing at the change of the alcaldes of the
wells.

At seven o'clock the old alcaldes took their seats for the last time,
and administered the oath of office to their successors, after which a
procession formed for the church. The padrecito led the way,
accompanied by the new alcaldes. They were dressed in black body-coats
and black hats, which, as we had not seen such things since we left
Merida, among the white dresses and straw hats around seemed a strange
costume. Then followed the Indian officials, each with his staff of
office, and the rest of the crowd in the plaza. Grand mass was said,
after which the padrecito sprinkled the new alcaldes with holy water,
and withdrew into his room in the convent to take chocolate. We
followed him, and about the same time the whole body of new officers
entered. The white alcaldes all came up and shook hands with us, and
while the padrecito was raising his chocolate to his lips, the Indians
went one by one and kissed his hand without disturbing his use of it.
During this time he asked us what we thought of the muchachas, or girls
of the village, whether they would compare with those of our country,
and, still sipping his chocolate, made an address to the Indians,
telling them that, although they were great in respect to the other
Indians, yet in respect to the principal alcaldes they were but small
men; and, after much other good advice, he concluded by telling them
that they were to execute the laws and obey their superiors.

At nine o'clock we returned to our quarters, where, either by reason of
our exertion, or from the regular course of the disease, we all had a
recurrence of fever, and were obliged to betake ourselves to our
hammocks. While in this condition the padrecito came in with a letter
he had just received from Ticul, bringing intelligence that the cura
had passed a fatal night, and was then dying. His ministro had written
to us a