whole of this region is retired and comparatively unknown. The
village is without the line of all the present main roads; it does not
lie on the way to any place of general resort, and is not worth
stopping at on its own account. Notwithstanding the commencement of
improvements, it was the most backward and thoroughly Indian of any
village we had visited. Merida was too far off for the Indians to think
of; but few of the vecinos ever reached it, and Ticul was their
capital. Everything that was deficient in the village they told us was
to be had at Ticul, and the sexton, who went over once a week for the
holy wafer, was always charged with some errand for us.

The first place which we proposed visiting was the ruins of Xcoch, and
in the very beginning of our researches in this neighbourhood we found
that we were upon entirely new ground. The attention of the people had
never been turned to the subject of the ruins in the neighbourhood.
Xcoch was but a league distant, and, besides the ruins of buildings it
contained an ancient poso, or well, of mysterious and marvellous
reputation, the fame of which was in everybody's mouth. This well was
said to be a vast subterraneous structure, adorned with sculptured
figures, an immense table of polished stone, and a plaza with columns
supporting a vaulted roof, and it was said to have a subterraneous
road, which led to the village of Mani, twenty-seven miles distant.

Notwithstanding this wondrous reputation and the publicity of the
details, and although within three miles of Nohcacab, the intelligence
we received was so vague and uncertain that we were at a loss how to
make our arrangements for exploring the well. Not a white man in the
place had ever entered it, though several had looked in at the mouth,
who said that the wind had taken away their breath, and they had not
ventured to go in. Its fame rested entirely upon the accounts of the
Indians, which, coming to us through interpreters, were very confused.
By the active kindness of the padrecito and his brother, the new
alcalde Segunda, two men were brought to us who were considered most
familiar with the place, and they said that it would be impossible to
enter it except by employing several men one or two days in making
ladders, and, at all events, they said it would be useless to attempt
the descent after the sun had crossed the meridian; and to this all our
friends and counsellors, who knew nothing about it, assented. Knowin