overnments, which are not populated to a particularly dense degree,--
twenty male inhabitants to a square verst (two thirds of a mile), and
not all engaged in agriculture,--have long been accustomed to look
upon Samara as a sort of promised land. They still regard it in that
light, and endeavor to emigrate thither, for the sake of obtaining
grants of state land, and certain immunities and privileges which are
accorded to colonists. This action is the result of the paradox that
overproduction exists hand in hand with too small a parcel of land for
each peasant!

Volumes have been written, and more volumes might still be written, on
this subject. But I must content myself here with saying that I believe
there is no province which illustrates so thoroughly all the distressing
features of these manifold and complicated problems of colonization, of
permanent settlements, with the old evils of both landlords and peasants
cropping up afresh, abundant and scanty harvests equally associated with
famine, and all the troubles which follow in their train, as Samara.
Hence it is that I can never recall the kumys, which is so intimately
connected with the name of Samara, without also recalling the famine,
which is, alas, almost as intimately bound up with it.

XII.

MOSCOW MEMORIES.

St. Petersburg is handsome, grand, impressive. Moscow is beautiful,
poetic, sympathetic, and pervaded by an atmosphere of ancient Russia,
which is indescribable, though it penetrates to the marrow of one's
bones if he tarry long within her walls. Emperor Peter's new capital
will not bear comparison, for originality, individuality, and
picturesqueness with Tzar Peter's Heart of Holy Russia, to which the
heart of one who loves her must, perforce, often return with longing in
after days,--"white-stoned golden-domed, Holy Mother Moscow."

But a volume of guide-book details, highly colored impressionist
sketches, and dainty miniature painting combined would not do justice to
Moscow. Therefore, I shall confine myself to a few random reminiscences
which may serve to illustrate habits or traits in the character of the
city or the people.

"'Eography," says Mrs. Booby, in one of the famous old Russian comedies
which we were so fortunate as to witness on the Moscow stage: "Ah! good
heavens! And what are cabmen for, then? That's their business. It's not
a genteel branch of learning. A gentleman merely says: 'Take me to such
or such a place,' and the