. If we had only happened to have on our
galoshes, we might have complied with etiquette by removing them, I
suppose, and could have entered in our shoes. At least, the Russian
policeman said so, and that is very nearly what the Tatars did. They
kicked off the stiff leather slippers in which they scuff about, and
entered in their tall boots, with the inset of frosted green pebbled
horsehide in the heel, and soft soles, like socks. As it was, we did not
care to try the experiment of removing our shoes, and so we were obliged
to stand in the vestibule, and look on from the threshold. Each Tatar,
as he entered, pulled out the end of his turban, and let it float down
his back. Where the turban came from for the prayers, I do not know.
None of the Tatars had worn a turban in the shops from which they had
just come in large numbers, abandoning the pressing engagements of the
busy noontide. Several individuals arrived very late, and decided not to
enter. All of these late comers, one after the other, beckoned me
mysteriously out of sight of the congregation and the _mollah_, and
whispered eagerly:--

"How do you like it?"

"_Very_ much," I answered emphatically; whereupon they exhibited signs
of delight which were surprising in such grave people, and even made a
motion to kiss my hand.

At least, that is what the motion would have meant from a Russian. Next
to the magnificent ceremonial of the Russian Church, the opposite
extreme, this simplicity of the congregational Mussulman worship is the
most impressive I have ever seen.

The manner of our departure from Nizhni Novgorod was characteristically
Russian,--but not by our own choice. We decided to go on up the Volga
by steamer, see the river and a few of the towns, and return from some
point, by rail, to Moscow.

The boat was advertised to start from the wharf, in the old town, at six
o'clock in the evening. We went aboard in good season, and discovered
that there were but three first-class staterooms, the best of which (the
only good one, as it afterwards appeared) had been captured by some
friends of the captain. We installed ourselves in the best we could get,
and congratulated each other when the steamer started on time. We had
hardly finished the congratulations when it drew up at another wharf and
made fast. Then it was explained to us that it was to load at this
wharf, at the "Siberian Landing," a point on the Volga shore of the Fair
sand-spit, miles nearer our ho