he time, or even
afterwards! An Englishman, who had traveled everywhere, and had seen
everything, told me that nowhere, even in India, had he seen the like of
the doings at this Fair; and he was greatly shocked." He added that an
officer could not appear at these places in uniform.

I begged the photographer to remember in future that there were several
sorts of American women, and that not all of them worked by the law of
contraries. In my own mind I wondered what those particular women had
done, and wished, for the hundredth time, that American women abroad
would behave themselves properly, and not earn such a reputation for
their country-people.

On Sunday we went to the Armenian church, to see the service and to meet
some Armenian acquaintances. We found the service both like and unlike
the Russian, in many points approaching more nearly to the Greek form.
The music was astonishing. An undercurrent of sound, alternating between
a few notes, was kept up throughout the service, almost without a break.
At times, this undercurrent harmonized with the main current of intoning
and chanting, but quite as often the discord was positively distressing.
Perceiving that we were strangers, the Armenians showed their
hospitality in an original way. First, when one of the congregation went
forward to the chancel railing and received from the priest the triple
kiss of peace, which he then proceeded to communicate to another person,
who passed it on in dumb show, and so on through the whole assembly,
neither men nor women would run the risk of offending us by offering the
simulated kiss. Secondly, and more peculiar, besides throwing light on
their motives in omitting the kiss, they deliberately passed us by when
they brought round the plate for the collection! This was decidedly
novel! A visit to the Armenian church in St. Petersburg convinced us
that the discordant music was not an accident due to bad training, but
deliberate and habitual. I noticed also that the men and women, though
they stood on opposite sides of the church, as with the Russian Old
Ritualists, with the women on the left,--in the State Church, at
Court, the women stand on the right,--they crossed themselves from
left to right, like Roman Catholics, instead of the other way about, as
do the Russians.

As we were exploring the Tatar shops at noon, we heard the muezzin
calling to prayer from the minaret of the mosque close by, and we set
off to attend the service