table adjunct to
every eating establishment at the Fair, as we had learned, sang
wretchedly, and were rewarded accordingly when one of their number came
round to take up a collection. But the view! Far below, at our feet,
swept broad "Matushka Volga." The wharves were crowded with vessels.
Steamers and great barges lay anchored in the stream in battalions.
Though the activity of the day was practically over, tugs and small
boats were darting about and lending life to the scene. We were on the
"Hills" side of the river. Far away, in dreamy dimness, lay the flat,
blue-green line of the "Forests" shore. On our left was the mouth of the
Oka, and the Fair beyond, which seemed to be swarming with ants, lay
flat on the water level. The setting sun tinged the scene with pale rose
and amber in a mild glow for a while, and then the myriad lights shone
out from the city and river with even more charming effect.

Our next visit to the old town was in search of a writer who had
published a couple of volumes of agreeable sketches. It was raining
hard, so we engaged an _izvostchik_ who was the fortunate possessor of
an antiquated covered carriage, with a queer little drapery of scarlet
cotton curtains hanging from the front of the hood, as though to screen
the modesty of "the young person" from the manners, customs, and sights
of the Fair,--about which, to tell the truth, the less that is said in
detail the better. Certainly, more queer, old-fashioned carriages and
cabmen's costumes are to be seen at the Fair than anywhere else in the
country. As we were about to enter our antique conveyance, my mother's
foot caught in the braid on the bottom of her dress, and a long strip
gave way.

"I must go upstairs and sew this on before we start," said she,
reentering the hotel.

The _izvostchik_ ran after us. "Let me sew it on, Your High Well-born,"
he cried. Seeing our surprise, he added, "God is my witness,--_yay
Bogu!_ I am a tailor by trade."

His rent and faded coat did not seem to indicate anything of the sort,
but I thought I would try him, as I happened to have a needleful of silk
and a thimble in my pocket. I gave them to him accordingly. He knelt
down and sewed on the braid very neatly and strongly in no time. His
simple, friendly manner was irresistibly charming. I cannot imagine
accepting such an offer from a New York cabby,--or his offering to do
such a job.

When we reached the old town, I asked a policeman where to find my