nd returning to the Villa Valentina in a week, or
when the weather should drive us back. But the gods thought otherwise.

Tetuan was, by report, in the most beautiful part of Morocco: its
situation reminded travellers of Jerusalem; it was among the Anjera and
Riff Mountains; and though, of course, travel was impossible within the
forbidden land of the Riff, it was likely we should gather some
interesting crumbs of information, and come across a few of the famous
tribesmen, while we were staying on the borders. Above all, it was a
Moorish city, and counted an aristocratic one at that: no European
element spoilt its originality. On the face of it Tetuan had attractions.

Accordingly we made preparations to be off.

The first thing to be done was to get hold of a man who could cook, act
as guide, interpreter, and muleteer: plenty of them presented themselves,
and we closed with a certain Mohammed, who had been with Colonel H----.
Every third Moor is named Mohammed, or some corruption of it--eldest sons
invariably.

Next we ransacked Tangier for commissariat and camp outfit. Out of a
dirty little Spanish shop two men's saddles of antiquated English make,
with rolls, were unearthed, and hired in preference to some prehistoric
side-saddles, with moth-eaten doe-skin seats and horned third pommels.

[Illustration: _Photo by A. Cavilla, Tangier._]

TETUAN.

[_To face p. 30._]

Then we obtained a permit from the English Consul, for the sum of
seven-and-sixpence, authorizing us to apply to the governor of the Kasbah
for one of the Moorish soldiers quartered in Tangier, who should act as
our escort to Tetuan. The Sultan of Morocco undertakes to protect British
subjects travelling in his dominions as far as possible, provided they
supply themselves with an adequate escort and avoid roads through unsafe
territory. The various tribes from among themselves sometimes provide an
armed guard to see travellers safely across their own country, handing
them on at the borders to the next tribe, who sends its mounted escort to
meet them. The headman arranges for the safety of Europeans, and his
tribe answers for their lives. But this plan involves prearrangement,
publicity, and fuss. Now from Tangier to Tetuan the road by daylight is
perfectly safe--though it happens that, at the time of writing, the body
of a peasant, presumably out after sunset, has been found robbed and
murdered close to it. Therefore one soldier was all we should w