ant; and
at last this bodyguard was supplied, a ragged Moor, with a lean mule and
a French rifle--all for five shillings per day.

We next visited a general "stores," lined with the familiar Cadbury,
Keiller, and Huntley & Palmer tins: there we invested in corned beef,
tinned soup, potted meats, cheese, salt, macaroni, marmalade, tea,
coffee, sugar, candles, soap, matches, etc. Things not to be forgotten
were nails, hammer, rope, methylated spirit and etna. A revolver for its
moral effect is necessary, and may be invaluable in a tight corner. We
provided ourselves with two tents, one for the servants and a larger one
for ourselves; a set of camp furniture, including kitchen pots and pans;
and an enamel breakfast and dining service, which, if time had mattered
little, would have been well exchanged for an aluminium set out from
England, as lighter and more convenient.

Mohammed hired four mules and another man--Ali--himself taking charge of
the cooking department, providing meat, bread, vegetables, fruit, etc.:
then with our _bundobust_ complete, and a letter of introduction from Sir
Arthur Nicolson to the British Vice-Consul at Tetuan, we started on
November 28.

It was one of the hottest mornings we had had, not a fleck of cloud in
the sky, and what air there was due east: the sea lay flat as a blue
pool, and five or six white sails might have been swans on its glassy
surface. Mohammed appeared early in the sandy road underneath our
windows. To avoid waking people in the hotel, we handed our diminutive
kit out through the window to him--only a couple of waterproof rolls,
which held rugs and bare necessities; then locking up the bulk of our
worldly goods behind us, slipped out of the Villa Valentina, mounted our
mules, and were off across the white sand-dunes bordering the sea.

Tetuan lies forty-four miles to the south-east of Tangier: people with
much time and little energy have made a three days' march of it. A range
of hills rather more than half-way makes a natural division, and on the
top of this watershed a _fondak_ (caravanserai) stands for the use of
travellers during the night: here it is usual to camp.

We were an odd little procession as we left Tangier. Our mounted soldier,
Cadour, led the way, in a brown weather-worn jellab, which he pulled
right up over his head like a Franciscan friar: his legs were bare, his
feet thrust into a pair of old yellow shoes. He carried his gun across
his saddle in front