a slippered sole,--all alike are the finest relics of a taste which
ruled in the construction of the Alhambra, where Mauresque design is seen
at its best. The aristocrats of Tetuan are descendants of the old
Andalusian families, who, having left Morocco and invaded Spain, settled
there, built the Alhambra, were in the course of time driven back over
the seas, and took refuge in Tetuan and other coast towns. Their very
title-deeds, together with the keys of their houses in Granada, are still
in the possession of their descendants in Tetuan.

While the best work in the courtyard houses of to-day harks back to the
brave days of Spain, the Moor of the twentieth century has less of the
vitality and originality which distinguished his forefathers, and he is
apt to mix cheap up-to-date decoration with the patio and the windowless
wall, of which the Duke's guest-house may stand for an example.

When the great door had shut behind us, and we were outside in the
street again, it seemed both narrow and prosaic after the sunny patio,
with the yellow-fringed orange-trees almost branching into the rooms, and
the fitful accompaniment of running water, dear to the Moorish ear.

In the course of the afternoon Mohammed, Ali, mules, and baggage put in
an appearance, and we found them waiting in the feddan, anxious to put
our tents up in the middle of the noisy, crowded sok, where the wind,
which had dropped but little, was whirling dust round in clouds, and
where we should have been the centre of a staring throng--at the same
time, an ideal place in the servants' eyes, suggesting cafes and
conversation the whole night through. The camping-ground which "the
infidel" selects is an insoluble puzzle to the Moor, and they went off
mystified and disappointed, under orders from the Consul to pitch the
tents outside the city.

Later on we followed, by a street redolent and sweet with honey, of which
a great quantity had just come in from the Riff country, leading to
_Bab-el-Aukla_ (the Gate of Wisdom), so called because the elders of the
city, the wise men, used to sit outside on some of the great rocks: a
fine two-storied, square-shaped gateway, with a pointed arch and toothed
ornament above it. Three little windows overlook the arch; the black
noses of small cannon protrude in a long row out of the white parapeted
walls; a flagstaff tops the whole, and flies the crimson streamer of
Morocco. A line of sea-green tiling beneath the cannon breaks