ning to answer, he
solemnly folded up the humbell and put it away, then folded one by one
the goods which littered the floor, and stacked them above the humbell on
the same shelf. Still standing in front of the shop, we repeated our
offer of sixteen shillings. He shook his head decidedly, made a
deprecating gesture, and prepared to sink again on his couch. Mr. Bewicke
forbade us to offer more; we walked away. A voice said in Arabic, "It is
yours," and the humbell was thrown after us; the sixteen shillings were
received with a sigh as the shopkeeper resumed his couch.

Tetuan makes many artistic "towels," which form the ordinary dress of the
countrywomen underneath their old enfolding yellowish-white woollen
haiks; but for quite the majority a towel as skirt and a towel as cape
are sufficient for all purposes. There is the rare addition of a pair of
cotton drawers.

The strong substance and fast scarlet dyes make these towels no mean
substitutes for curtains, except that, like native goods in general, they
seldom quite match, and distract the soul which demands "pairs" in all
and everything.

A Jew we visited in the Jews' Quarter had a fine carpet for sale, made
farther south, something like a Persian, the ground whitish, with
harmonious reds and greens. For a long time we sat and tried to bargain
in his odd little den up a dilapidated staircase and nearly pitch dark:
he wanted L5. The pattern was a little small. We came away without it.
Some of the old _kaftans_ (robes of coloured cloth or satin or silk
brocade, embroidered with gold or silver, buttoned down the front and
with wide sleeves) were well worth buying: none are made like them
nowadays, for common material is used; unfortunately the best are often
in tatters.

We visited the Slipper Market, and, sitting on the doorstep of one of the
shops, gave directions for two pairs--blue velvet embroidered with gold,
and milk-coloured leather embroidered with green. Size, price, and colour
were duly discussed; rain came on, we sat on the doorsill sheltering, and
the basha--Tetuan's governor--was criticised. The slipper-maker had not a
good word for him. To begin with, it seems he has no money, is of no
family, and aristocratic Tetuan refuses to "hob-nob" with him. He
dislikes Tetuan after Fez, whence he was transferred, and where he made
more money. The other day a neighbouring tribe sent him a present of so
many dollars. At the same time they owed him certain taxes,