asking two
pounds five a month, and came down to thirty shillings) all was settled,
and New Year's Day, 1902, found us living in a whitewashed garden-house
in Morocco, out in the country.

Moors have extravagant ideas of the sums English people will pay. Mr.
Bewicke was offered a house and garden for seven pounds ten a month: some
time after the landlord asked three pounds; eventually he came down to
thirty-nine shillings.

[Illustration: JINAN DOLERO.

[_To face p. 158._]

Having handed a month's rent over to Ali Slowee, he had Jinan Dolero done
up, whitewashed at least, outside and in, from top to toe--a rite
performed on every opportunity all the year round in Morocco, like
spring-cleanings at home. Tiles were mended, windows repainted, glass put
in, and we followed,--the simplest thing in the world; "furnishing" takes
no time in Morocco. Three mules carried out all we put into the empty
little house--all our effects, that is to say, from the fonda. A few rugs
were unrolled, camp-beds, table, and chairs put together, some nails
driven into the walls, and in one hour we were "in." Gibraltar supplied
the camp furniture; necessaries were raked together in Tetuan, including
the dome-shaped pewter teapot, and the painted tins, pink and green and
blue, for tea, coffee, and sugar, which mark the tramp of the European
across Morocco, and are both of them for ever associated with sweet green
tea and turbans. Mattresses we had made, and made ourselves, of moss,
brought in by the countrywomen and dried; and an Englishman, A---- (one
of the few who have become Mohammedans and settled in Morocco), lent
several more, which made divans round our walls.

A---- has a little house close to Jinan Dolero, and occupies himself with
his garden outside the city. He dresses like a Moor. In spite of it all,
he is not welcomed among them as a brother, but goes by the name of "The
Renegade." They probably divine that he adopts their religion as a part
of the customs of the country with which he identifies himself, less for
the sake of Mohammedanism itself than for the life which that religion
inculcates.

Apparently men in such a position rarely benefit the country in which
they settle, and often do harm, ending by paying the penalty of meddling
with the manners and customs of another race.

Now, at the time of writing this chapter, A---- has paid in full. Only a
few months after we left Tetuan he was shot one evening in his garden an