their rights;
while the wonder is that the baby's head does not roll off of its
shoulders. The mother is seemingly indifferent as to its existence.
Along the shores of the river are rice fields and orchards, interspersed
with pagodas, which from a distance look like hanging gardens. Chance
wind bears sand and seed to these overhanging roofs, and shrubs and
flowers grow and bloom. Whampun and Homan, two lofty pagodas, made
famous by their age and height, are seen from the steamer, and an
occasional dead body of a Chinaman floats by us. As we near the landing
of Canton small boats filled with lepers come alongside soliciting alms.
They are most pitiful in appearance and, judging from the coins thrown
them, it is the only means of their maintenance.

Guides are in waiting at the steamer's wharf, and we only feel safe when
protected by them. Six chairs with four men each, made up our van. Mr.
Wilder, of Honolulu, had joined us. These coolies groan as they trot
along. With the thermometer about 80 and no clothing save the loin
cloth, they stop only long enough to change the pole from one shoulder
to the other, which are lacerated and in great welts. If it were not for
the novel sights that meet the eye the sympathy aroused would be too
trying for the traveler. Canton is called the "City of Rams," or the
"City of the Genii." These names are derived from the supposed visit of
fire-protecting spirits that came from heaven two thousand years ago. It
is the chief trading city of southern China. Foreigners first visited
here in the eighth century. In 1568 the Portuguese were in China, and in
1615 the Tartars invaded it. We passed through what is known as the
Tartar town; it was neater and cleaner than the other quarters. Later
the East India Company took possession and for a century and a half
controlled the foreign trade. The British invaded the city of Canton in
1841 and took possession, but the ransom of six million was made for its
redemption. Again in 1857 the allied forces of British and French
captured it, and for nearly four years it was in the hands of
foreigners, its government being administered by a joint commission. It
has now its European concession. Canton is a typical Chinese city, the
contracted streets, not exceeding six feet in width except in spaces
where some official residence or temple is built. It is with great
difficulty we make any headway through these narrow lanes, and are often
compelled to leave our