e prisons seemed
crowded; the inmates were chained to stones or bars of iron, all
apparently in one large hall, separated from the spectators by upright
bars of iron. When we approached they made a rush toward us as well as
their heavily burdened limbs would allow, and begged for money with
which their freedom could be bought. The yoke some wore was most
torturing. I could think only of Dante's inferno. The execution grounds
was a most grewsome place, about twenty-five feet long and ten or twelve
feet wide, used daily for drying and storing pottery. The prisoner was
made to kneel, bowing his head, while the executioner's ax did the work.
We saw a head which had been decapitated before our arrival. From the
wall of Canton we could see mountainsides, which seemed to be one vast
number of graves, whose entrance were in the form of a horseshoe. In the
city is a building they call the "Old Man's Paradise." It is kept up by
the wealthy class. The remains of the male dead can be left here for
five years, incased in a huge lacquered wood coffin, costing $1,500.
Under it is placed plates of lime to prevent white ants from destroying
the wood. Before the coffin is a drop curtain to shield it from the gaze
of the passer by, in front of which is an altar decked with tinselled
flowers; beside this is an empty chair, around which are grouped wooden
images supposed to be the servants of the departed master waiting his
return, with rice and tea prepared and placed near by. A couch for a
servant who guarded the body was occupied each night. The place was
rather attractive than otherwise. We lunched upon the walls of Canton in
a deserted building, but old with memories. We visited some shops where
the crepe, for which the manufactory is noted, can be found in almost
all colors, some beautifully embroidered, for moderate prices. The
markets are disgusting with the skinned rats and bloody fish which are
offered for sale, and a few days' sojourn amidst such surroundings
satisfies the traveler.

On our return to Hongkong (the port from which we sailed) the sight of
the French steamer "Melbourne," which was to bear us on our journey, was
an agreeable vision, although on that line of steamers little is done
for the pleasure of the passengers. We took on at Saigon the Governor of
Siberia, his wife and secretary; also the Siberian Minister to China,
with his wife, with many Russians. The ladies of the party were
handsome, and often regaled us wi