n and eight o'clock drives in state to Abdin Palace, which
is about a half mile from Ismalia, his home. Abdin is the usual place
for receptions and ceremonial visits. Here the Khedive spends the day,
transacting various business, seeing ministers, reading letters and
telegrams and talking with his courtiers. At 5:00 p. m. he drives again
with his guard, preceded by his athletic sais about forty feet in
advance, while in his victoria sits always some companion beside him.
These sais attract much attention, so very graceful are they in
appearance. Their white Turkish trousers, their gold embroidered bolero
jacket, with bright, oriental sashes and a cap of bright color that sets
off their fine features and well-shaped head. They are very fleet, but
we were told that their earthly race is soon run, the exercise being too
violent. We take donkeys to visit the bazaars. There is a change of
temperature, about 60 deg. Fah., but the attempt made to keep our seat
on our lively animals brought out the perspiration, as this was our
maiden effort. The name of the present Khedive is Lewfak (1895). On a
recent occasion he was asked: "What would be the effect on the harem if
the slaves and eunuchs were no longer on guard?" He replied: "The women
would rush into all sorts of license." He agreed that education was the
one thing needful, and in accordance with his convictions has started a
high school for girls, at his own expense. The Mussulman women's morals
are very low; their influence on the children of the harem is most
deplorable. The Ezbekiah Garden confronts us nearby the hotel. It was
formerly a lake surrounded by trees and habitations. At the present,
after many changes, it is of rectangular form, with corners cut off,
surrounded by an iron railing. A basin with swan, and carefully sanded
paths with strange trees brought from the interior of Africa is a
beautiful sight. The limpid blue sky and the rays of the magnificent
eastern sun makes it an attractive place to linger, particularly so at
4:00 p. m., when a military band performs its European repertoire. Beer
shops, restaurants and photographic pavilions are installed in and near
this garden; veiled women, men in silk gowns of various colors, mostly
blues, roam about with the most perfect ease. Beautiful Egyptian tents
were erected for a bazaar while we were there. No one can appreciate,
without seeing their effective display, made of sailcloth, with red,
yellow and blue calico