f chambers, shaft and corridors, where the mummies were once
placed, but now all are swept and garnished. All that remains to tell
the tale, are the writings and sculpturing on the walls. The scribe has
taken precaution that he who runs may read. The series of bas-reliefs is
a biography in stone with illustrations. The entire life of a man is
written there. I must quote from a writer a few lines that have
impressed me: "It is said that man's head becomes smaller every day, his
muscle and chest enlarged; animal strength develops at the expense of
the brain, which diminishes in proportion. The law of the strongest is
the law of human species, one-half of which is seeking to destroy the
other." These scenes depicted on the crumbling ruins, enriched by color,
are strikingly realistic, built partly during the life time, and often
after the death of the person. These give the best possible insight
into the life of the Egyptians of that period. From past ages to the
present hour are men building their own monuments, immortalizing, if
possible, their virtues. How well the foundation should be laid, that
the principles, overlapping each other, may make a fitting example for
future generations.

There are no new cities built of any magnitude; the new would only
depopulate the old. From Memphis, reduced to a state of quarry, is built
Alexandria; from Heliopolis we have Cairo. In passing the limestone
cliffs we experience cold and wind; the mummied crocodile pits we pass,
and stop at Aizril. Peddlers besiege the vessel, and the vociferating
yell was kept up until long after 10:00 p. m., the hour when all lights
in the cabin are shut off. At Aizul, we buy Nubian veils, which are made
by embroideries in gold stars on black and white heavy netting, and are
most becoming when worn by Nubian women. Soudanese embroidery is thrust
upon us, but to all we turn a deaf ear and again mount donkeys to visit
the bazaars. It was market day; the roads dusty; long lines of camels
with their undulating necks and inhuman cry, impeded our way and shocked
our nerves. What vagueness in the stare of a camel; what great, sad
eyes; walking slowly with their heavy burdens, urged on by the voice and
gesture of sober-looking Bedouins, perched upon the beast. Women with
ravaged features and with soiled garments pass us, with babies seated
astride of their shoulders; little girls clutching their gowns, with
leather or silver amulets on their neck or suspended be