to retrace our steps.

One of the attractions of Delhi is the tower of Kutah Mina, rising to a
height of 240 feet, divided into five stories, built of red, buff and
pink sandstone. The column, or tower, is of fluted architecture for most
of the height, and decorated at intervals with layers of white marble
slabs. We were told it was built for a favorite daughter of the ruling
monarch, that she might, from its height, view the Holy River Jumna,
which was at a great distance from her home. According to the tale told
us, this tower must be ascended before she broke her morning fast. Near
by stands the iron pillar, nearly a foot and a half in diameter and over
forty feet high above the ground. It is a solid shaft of malleable iron,
the natives claim its foundation is laid in the center of the earth. To
see the tower and iron pillar necessitates a ride of eleven miles
through dust and dirt and but little of any interest along the wayside.
We visited the tomb of Johanara, the daughter of Shah Jehan, who shared
her father's captivity. Pure in spirit and humble she chose a plain
block of marble or alabaster, to cover her grave, screened by a
delicately wrought white marble. The epitaph inscribed on her tomb
reads:

"Place naught but one green herb above my head;
This alone befits the poor and lonely dead."

Pious monks keep fresh grass on her tomb; a slab at the head of the
grave bears this inscription in Arabic: "God is life and the
resurrection." The shops are attractive and we find and purchase some
ivories and, if one cares for the likeness of Shah Jehan, they will be
able to purchase paintings in miniature of him and his wife, done on
porcelain. Whether or not true to nature, we are unable to judge.
Beautiful pink pearls are shown us. How often I have regretted not
buying some of them; we never found them so perfect after leaving Delhi.
The enameled bracelets are shown in great variety, and yet we pass them
by.

Jeypore is a typical Indian city, twelve hours by rail from Delhi. The
streets are wide and well watered, the houses of stucco, gaudily painted
in hieroglyphic designs, are two and three stories high. In the middle
of the streets, at intervals of two or three squares, are stone wells,
around which rested diminutive gods of wood and stone. In the early
morning hours the natives lay an offering of flowers before these idols
and wash their hands or faces in the water and go on their way
rejoicing. Innume