them all.
In _cutting the mortice_, first fasten the piece so that it will rest
solid on the bench. This may be done either in a tail vise or by a
handscrew, or by clamping the bench-hook firmly in the vise in such a
way that the cleat of the bench-hook overhangs the piece. Then tap
the bench-hook with a mallet and the piece will be found to be held
tightly down on the bench. See Fig. 76, p. 58.
It is common to loosen up the wood by first boring a series of
adjoining holes whose centers follow the center-line of the mortise
and whose diameter is slightly less than the width of the mortise.
Take care to bore perpendicularly to the surface, see Fig. 137, p. 86,
and no deeper than necessary. Dig out the portions of wood between the
auger holes and chisel off thin slices, back to the gage-lines and
to the knife-lines, taking care all the time to keep the sides of the
mortise perpendicular to the face. This may be tested by placing the
chisel against the side of the mortise and standing alongside it a
try-square with its head resting on the surface.
Finally test the tenon in the mortise noting carefully where it
pinches, if anywhere, and trim carefully. The tighter it fits without
danger of splitting the mortised member, the stronger will be the
joint.
Many prefer to dig mortises without first boring holes. For this
purpose a mortise-chisel, Fig. 68, p. 54, is desirable. The method
is to begin at the middle of the mortise, placing the chisel--which
should be as wide as the mortise--at right angles to the grain of the
wood. Chisel out a V shaped opening about as deep as the mortise, and
then from this hole work back to each end, occasionally prying out the
chips. Work with the flat side of the chisel toward the middle except
the last cut or two at the ends of the mortise.
_No. 33._ In a _mortise-and-tenon joint on rabbeted pieces_, Fig. 266,
the tenon is as much shorter on one side than the other as the rabbet
is wide. In Fig. 33, ab=cd.
_No. 34. A wedged mortise-and-tenon joint_, Fig. 266, is a thru joint
in which after the tenon is driven home, wedges are driven in between
the tenon and the sides of the mortise. The wedges are dipped in glue
or white lead before being inserted. The sides of the mortise may be
slightly dovetailed. It is used to keep a tenon tightly fixed as in
wheel spokes.
_No. 35. A wedged mortise-and-tenon joint_, Fig. 266, may also be made
by driving the wedges into saw kerfs in the tenon
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