n the separate legs as well, to
brace them apart and to keep them from bending under the pressure.
These methods have the advantage that they are speedy, since all the
pieces go together at once; but unless the pieces fit exactly the
joints will not close.
Another method is to glue and clamp the pieces of the taboret together
two by two, using blocks as shown in Fig. 258, _a_. Care should be
taken to put the pressure of the handscrews as far out as possible so
as to be sure that the outside of the joint closes. This method has
the advantage that, as only one joint is glued at a time, the work
can be done more deliberately. Moreover, if when three pairs of a
six-sided taboret are together, the other three joints do not fit
exactly, they can then be refitted.
Another method is to glue pieces of soft wood on the exterior of each
pieces as shown in Fig. 258, _c_. These blocks should be of such shape
that the opposite sides of each pair are parallel. When the glue is
dry, they are used as corners on which to clamp the handscrews. This
method has the disadvantage that the blocks may break loose at a
critical moment.
[Illustration: Fig. 257. One Method of Gluing up a Six-Sided Taboret.]
In addition to any of these methods of tightening the joints, to make
sure that the ends of the joints close tight, pinch-dogs, Fig. 178, p.
103, may be driven into the end grain, and corrugated fasteners, Fig.
228, p. 125, also driven into the ends, make the joint quite secure.
_No. 53. A doweled miter_, Fig. 268, is one in which one or more
dowels are inserted and glued into holes bored into the beveled edges.
It may be used instead of nails, as in large picture frames.
_No. 54. A spline or tongue miter_, Fig. 268, is one which has a
spline or tongue inserted at right angles to the joint. Since it
furnishes more gluing surface, it is stronger than a plain miter.
_No. 55. A slip-feather or slip-key miter_, Fig. 268, is one which is
strengthened by a slip of hardwood glued into a saw kerf cut across
the mitered angle. It is used in picture-frames and in boxes.
_No. 56. A slip-dovetail miter_, Fig. 268, is one in which a
trapezoidal shaped key is inserted in a dovetail socket cut straight
across the miter. When dressed off, it gives the appearance of a
dovetail on each face. It is used for the same purpose as a spline
miter.
_No. 57. A double dovetail keyed miter_, Fig. 268, is one in which a
double dovetail key made of hard
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