es are filled
with a fillet.

[Illustration: Fig. 262. Edge-to-Edge Joint, Doweled.]

_No. 72. A matched or tongue-and-groove joint_, Fig. 269, is made
by making a projection or "tongue" in the center of the edge of one
board, and a corresponding groove in the center of the other so that
they will match together. When used for flooring, the lower side of
the grooved board is slightly rebated so that the upper edges will
surely touch. This sort of flooring can be blind-nailed.

_No. 73. A beaded joint_, Fig. 269, is similar to a matched joint
except that a bead is worked on one edge to disguise the joint for
decorative purposes.

_No. 74. A spline-joint_, Fig. 269, is made by plowing corresponding
grooves in the edges to be joined and inserting a spline or
slip-feather. It is used in plank flooring.

_No. 75. A doweled joint_, Fig. 269, is made by jointing the two edges
carefully, boring holes opposite each other and inserting dowel pins
when the two edges are glued together. It is used in table tops, etc.

Where the boards are thick enough to allow it, a squeezed joint is
greatly strengthened by the insertion of dowels.

The essential point in inserting dowels is to have the holes for them
directly opposite one another and at right angles to the surface. The
following is a convenient method where boards are to be joined edge to
edge, Fig. 262. Place the two boards back to back in the vise with the
edges and ends flush. Determine approximately where the dowels are
to be inserted. With the gage, mark short lines at the points of
insertion in the center of each edge, gaging from the outside faces.
Across these lines score accurately with a try-square and knife. Then
bore the holes with a dowel-bit at the intersection of the lines, Fig.
263. If this is carefully done, the holes will be directly opposite
one another, and equidistant from the faces of both boards. All the
holes should be of equal depth, say 1", in order that the dowel-pins,
which should also be cut of equal lengths, may be interchangeable.
After boring, the holes may be slightly countersunk in order to insure
a tight joint and the easy slipping of the pins into place. The latter
result may also be obtained by slightly pointing the pins with a
dowel-pointer, Fig. 123, p. 83. It is also a wise precaution to cut a
small groove along the length of the pin to allow superfluous glue to
escape from the hole. The dowel should be dipped in glue and inserted
w