t provisions, and had
arranged for the purchase of two fat sheep and some four hundred and
fifty pounds of food--flour, rice, _tsamba_, _ghur_ (sweet paste),
sugar, salt, and butter. Several Tibetans stated they could supply me
with any quantity I required. Among others was a Shoka trader from
Buddhi, who promised to bring me, within an hour, a sufficient quantity
of food to last us ten men twenty-five days. I noticed, when these men
left, that two of my Shokas ran after them, and entered into an excited
discussion with them. Some two or three hours later the traders
returned, swearing that not an ounce of food could be obtained in the
place. The way in which these men could lie was marvellous. I
reprimanded my Shokas, threatening to punish them severely if my
suspicions of their treachery proved to be well founded.

The Shokas, finding themselves discovered, and through fear of the
Tibetans, were now again demoralized. It was no use keeping them by
force, and I decided to discharge them. From the moment I had entered
the forbidden country I had been compelled to protect myself against
them quite as much as against the Tibetans. I reflected, however, when
I made up my mind to let them go, that these fellows had stood for my
sake hardships and privations which few men could stand. In paying them
off I therefore rewarded them suitably, and in their gratitude they
undertook to bring back safely across the frontier part of my baggage
containing photographs, ethnological collections, etc. This promise was
duly fulfilled. With infinite trouble I then managed to purchase enough
provisions to last five men ten days.

The whole party accompanied me three and a quarter miles farther, where
in sight of the tumbling-down Panku Gomba, a mile to the west of us, we
halted in order to make the necessary arrangements for our parting,
unseen by the Tibetans. I took observations for latitude and longitude.
The water of the hypsometrical apparatus boiled at 185 deg. Fahrenheit,
fifty feet above the level of the lake, the temperature of the air being
76 deg. and the hour 10 A.M.

We could see a high snowy chain to the south of us, extending
approximately from south-west to north-east, starting from the Nimo
Namzil peak.

When everything was ready the five Shokas, including Kachi and Dola,
left me, swearing by the sun and all that they held most sacred that
they would in no way betray me to the Tibetans.

Bijesing the Johari and Nattoo