ed, they received a silver rupee in
payment. This was the first step toward a peaceful settlement of the
disturbance. After some time calm was restored, and though still
regarded with suspicion, we were politely treated by the natives.

Unfortunately, here too we were unable to purchase provisions, the
natives declaring that they had not sufficient food for themselves. At
night the thermometer fell to 26 deg. We felt the cold intensely. We
purchased a quantity of dung from the natives and made a fire in the
morning. Having feasted on the goat, which we killed, and on yak's milk,
we made preparations to strike camp early next morning. Having had a
good meal after several days' privations, we felt happier than usual.

On leaving Tarbar we followed for a while the course of the river. It
was a glorious day, and we were able to admire the magnificent panorama
of the great rugged mountain range to the south-west of us. The higher
peaks were nearly all shaped like pyramids. I observed a gigantic
quadrangular peak which I took to be Mount Everest. Next to it was
another pyramidical peak, also very lofty, but not so high and beautiful
as its neighbor. I followed a general course toward east-south-east. As
the river, which we had more or less followed, now described a big bend
toward the south-south-east, I decided to cross it. We waded through it
successfully with water up to our necks, and again we found ourselves
upon marshy land, with a repetition of the previous day's experience.

Farther on we crossed three more tributaries of the larger stream, all
fairly wide and deep. Then we had once more to get across the main
river, there of considerable depth and swiftness. The river traversed
the plain in zigzag fashion, and, unless we wanted to follow its banks,
and so lengthen the journey by double or treble the distance, this was
the only course open to us. Thus, while trying to travel as much as
possible in a straight line, we found ourselves for the third time
before this great river, now swollen by other snow-fed streams, and
carrying an immense body of water. It was in the afternoon, too, when
the water was at its highest. We attempted a crossing at several points,
but found it impossible. I decided to wait for low water early next
morning.

Apparently my yaks knew this part of the country well. I noticed that,
whenever I lost the track, all I had to do was to follow them, and they
would bring me back to it again. When I