d the snows. We intended crossing over the Lippu Pass into
Tibet to give the Jong Pen an opportunity of being interviewed. The
Tibetan official refused to meet us.
In order to give the Tibetans every chance, we climbed over the Lippu
Pass. It had been snowing heavily, and it was very cold. A Shoka had
only a few days previously been frozen to death in the snow trying to
cross over the pass. There were some twelve feet of snow, and the ascent
was not easy. Toiling for two hours from our last camp on the
mountain-side, we reached the summit of the pass. I was once more in
Tibet. Doctor Wilson, the Political Agent, and others were with us.
Having found a suitable spot where the wind did not cut quite so
furiously into our faces, we halted for a considerable time and waited
impatiently on the Tibetan side of the boundary for the Jong Pen or his
deputies, to whom letters had been sent asking them to come and meet us.
They did not put in an appearance.
In the afternoon of October 12th I finally turned my back on the
Forbidden Land. I was still far from well, but was glad indeed at the
prospect of seeing England and my friends again.
We returned to our camp, a few hundred feet lower than the pass, where
we had left our baggage and many of our men who were laid up with
mountain sickness.
Having fulfilled our mission, Mr. Larkin and I returned by quick marches
to Almora. In conducting the inquiry for the British Government, Mr.
Larkin obtained at the frontier ample testimony of what had occurred. A
full report was sent to the Government of India, and to the Foreign
Office and India Office in London. A copy of the Government Report will
be found in the Appendix.
Winter setting in, the Shokas, who had then all returned from Tibet,
were beginning to migrate to their winter homes lower down on the
mountains. When we passed the settlement many were already at work
repairing the fallen-down roofs of their winter habitations. A large
number of Tibetans with their sheep had also come over to spend the
winter on British territory. Their encampments could be seen all along
the road wherever there was sufficient grass for their flocks. The
Tibetans--Lamas and officials--maintained a high-handed and insolent
demeanor as long as we were in Bhot, which they regarded as part of
their own country, but which was in reality British soil. It must,
however, be said for them that the moment they came out of Bhot, and
had to deal with Hind
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