r grass could be found. The moment
the pass was crossed we were in a mild, pleasant climate, with a lovely
deep-blue sky over us. We found plenty of grass for our yaks and low
shrubs for our fires. After all our sufferings and privations, we felt
that we had indeed entered the land of God. I expected great trouble
sooner or later, but I was not sorry I had disobeyed the soldiers'
orders and had marched straight into the most forbidden province of the
forbidden land.

There is always satisfaction in doing what is forbidden.

The Brahmaputra received three small snow-fed tributaries descending
from the steep mountains on either side of us. Where the main stream
turned sharply south, a fourth and important tributary, carrying a large
volume of water, came down through a gorge from the north-north-east.

We encamped near the junction of these rivers, on the right bank of the
main stream, at an elevation of 16,620 feet. From the Maium Pass a
continuation of the Gangri chain of mountains stretched first in a
south-easterly direction, then due east, in a line almost parallel to
the higher southern range of the Himahlyas. Between these two ranges was
an extensive plain intersected by the Brahmaputra. On the southern side
of the river were minor hill ranges between the river course and the big
range of majestic snowy peaks. Although no peaks of considerable
elevation were to be found along the range north of the Brahmaputra, yet
it was of geographical importance, as its southern slopes formed the
northern watershed of the holy river as far as Lhassa.

The valley enclosed between these two parallel ranges was the most
thickly populated part of Tibet. Grass was abundant, and fuel easily
obtainable. Thousands of yaks, sheep, and goats could be seen grazing
near the many Tibetan camps along the Brahmaputra and its principal
tributaries. The trade route of caravans from Ladak to Lhassa followed
this valley. As I had come to Tibet to see and study the Tibetans, I
thought that, although I might run greater risks, I could in no part of
the country accomplish my object better than by going along this thickly
populated track.

We slept little. We expected the soldiers to attack us during the night
to try and stop our progress, but all was quiet and nothing happened.
Our yaks got loose, and we had difficulty in recovering them in the
morning. They had swum across the stream, and had gone about a mile on
the other side.

The night ha