ri was himself a bad
actor and declaimer. I am surprised that the tragedy of Mirra should
be a great favourite on the stage here. A very young actress, who made
her debut in this character, enchanted the whole city by the admirable
manner in which she performed it; and the piece was played for
eighteen nights successively; a singular triumph for an actress,
though not uncommon for a singer. In spite of its many beauties and
the artful management of the story; it would, I think, be as
impossible to make an English audience endure the Mirra, as to find an
English actress who would exhibit herself in so revolting a part.

* * * * *

_Tuesday._--Our last day at Florence. I walked down to the San Lorenzo
this morning early, and made a sketch of the sarcophagus of Lorenzo
de' Medici. Afterwards we spent an hour in the gallery, and bid adieu
to the Venus--

"O bella Venere!
Che sola sei,
Piacer degli uomini
E degli dei!"

When I went to take a last look of Titian's Flora, I found it removed
from its station, and an artist employed in copying it. I could have
envied the lady for whom this copy was intended; but comforted myself
with the conviction that no hireling dauber in water-colours could do
justice to the heavenly original, which only wants motion and speech
to live indeed. We then spent nearly two hours in the Pitti Palace;
and the court having lately removed to Pisa, we had an opportunity of
seeing Canova's Venus, which is placed in one of the Grand Duke's
private apartments. She stands in the centre of a small cabinet,
pannelled with mirrors, which reflect her at once in every possible
point of view. This statue was placed on the pedestal of the Venus de'
Medicis during her forced residence at Paris; and is justly considered
as the triumph of modern art: but though a most beautiful creature,
she is not a goddess. I looked in vain for that full divinity, that
ethereal _something_ which breathes round the Venus of the Tribune. In
another private room are two magnificent landscapes by Salvator Rosa.

Every good catholic has a portrait of the Virgin hung at the head of
his bed; partly as an object of devotion, and partly to scare away the
powers of evil: and for this purpose the Grand Duke has suspended by
his bed-side one of the most beautiful of Raffaelle's Madonnas. Truly,
I admire the good taste of his piety, though it is rather selfish thus
to appropriate such