c began, she placed a light in the
window as a signal that she listened propitiously, and then retired.
The group below consisted of two men, the lover and a musician he had
brought with him: the former stood looking up at the window with his
hat off, and the musician, after singing two very beautiful airs,
concluded with the delicious and popular Arietta "Buona notte, amato
bene!" to which the lover _whistled_ a second, in such perfect tune,
and with such exquisite taste, that I was enchanted. Rome is famous
for serenades and serenaders; but at this season they are seldom
heard. I remember at Venice being wakened in the dead of the night by
such delicious music, that (to use a hyperbole common in the mouths
of this poetical people) I was "transported to the seventh heaven:"
before I could perfectly recollect myself, the music ceased, the
inhabitants of the neighbouring houses threw open their casements, and
vehemently and enthusiastically applauded, clapping their hands, and
shouting bravos: but neither at Venice, at Padua, nor at Florence did
I hear any thing that pleased and touched me so much as the serenade
to which I have just been listening.

* * * * *

14.--To-day was quite heavenly--like a lovely May-day in England: the
air so pure, so soft, and the sun so warm, that I would gladly have
dispensed with my shawl and pelisse. We went in carriages to the other
side of the Palatine, and then dispersing in small parties, as will or
fancy led, we lounged and wandered about in the Coliseum, and among
the neighbouring ruins till dinner time. I climbed up the western side
of the Coliseum, at the imminent hazard of my neck; and looking down
through a gaping aperture, on the brink of which I had accidentally
seated myself, I saw in the colossal corridor far below me, a young
artist, who, as if transported out of his senses by delight and
admiration, was making the most extraordinary antics and gestures:
sometimes he clasped his hands, then extended his arms, then stood
with them folded as in deep thought; now he snatched up his portfolio
as if to draw what so much enchanted him, then threw it down and
kicked it from him as if in despair. I never saw such admirable dumb
show: it was better than any pantomime. At length, however, he
happened to cast up his eyes, as if appealing to heaven, and they
encountered mine peeping down upon him from above. He stood fixed and
motionless for two seconds