ut nothing to tempt me to
visit it again.
* * * * *
30.--We spent the whole morning at the Villa Albani, where there is a
superb collection of antique marbles, most of them brought from the
Villa of Adrian at Tivoli. To note down even a few of the objects
which pleased me would be an endless task. I think the busts
interested me most. There is a basso-relievo of Antinous--the
beautiful head declined in his usual pensive attitude: it is the most
finished and faultless piece of sculpture in relievo I ever saw; and
as perfect and as polished as if it came from the chisel yesterday.
There is another basso-relievo of Marcus Aurelius, and Faustina, equal
to the last in execution, but not in interest.
We found Rogers in the gardens: the old poet was sunning
himself--walking up and down a beautiful marble portico, lined with
works of art, with his note-book in his hand. I am told he is now
writing a poem of which Italy is the subject; and here, with all the
Campagna di Roma spread out before him--above him, the sunshine and
the cloudless skies--and all around him, the remains of antiquity in a
thousand elegant, or venerable, or fanciful forms: he could not have
chosen a more genial spot for inspiration. Though we disturbed his
poetical reveries rather abruptly, he met us with his usual amiable
courtesy, and conversed most delightfully. I never knew him more
pleasant, and never saw him so animated.
Our departure from Rome has been postponed from day to day in
consequence of a _trifling_ accident. An Austrian colonel was taken by
the banditti near Fondi, and carried up into the mountains: ten
thousand scudi were demanded for his ransom; and for many days past,
the whole city has been in a state of agitation and suspense about his
ultimate fate. The Austrians, roused by the insult, sent a large body
of troops (some say three thousand men) against about one hundred and
fifty robbers, threatening to exterminate them. They were pursued so
closely, that after dragging their unfortunate captive over the
mountains from one fastness to another, till he was nearly dead from
exhaustion and ill-treatment, they either abandoned or surrendered him
without terms. The troops immediately marched back to Naples, and the
matter rests here: I cannot learn that any thing farther will be done.
The robbers being at present panic-struck by such unusual energy and
activity, and driven from their accustomed haunts,
|