s tone in which they
praise the most beautiful modern production, _e moderna--ma pure non e
cativa!_

* * * * *

18.--We had an opportunity of witnessing to-day one of the most
splendid ceremonies of the Catholic church. It is one of the four
festivals at which the Pope performs mass in state at the Vatican, the
anniversary of St. Peter's entrance into Rome, and of his taking
possession of the Papal chair; for here St. Peter is reckoned the
first Pope. To see the high priest of an ancient and wide-spread
superstition publicly officiate in his sacred character, in the
grandest temple in the universe, and surrounded by all the trappings
of his spiritual and temporal authority, was an exhibition to make sad
a reflecting mind, but to please and exalt a lively imagination: I
wished myself a Roman Catholic for one half hour only. The procession,
which was so arranged as to produce the most striking theatrical
effect, moved up the central aisle, to strains of solemn and beautiful
music from an orchestra of wind instruments. The musicians were placed
out of sight, nor could I guess from what part of the buildings the
sounds proceeded; but the blended harmony, so soft, yet so powerful
and so equally diffused, as it floated through the long aisles and
lofty domes, had a most heavenly effect. At length appeared the Pope,
borne on the shoulders of his attendants, and habited in his full
Pontifical robes of white and gold; fans of peacocks' feathers were
waved on each side of his throne, and boys flung clouds of incense
from their censers. As the procession advanced at the slowest possible
foot-pace, the Pope from time to time stretched forth his arms which
were crossed upon his bosom, and solemnly blessed the people as they
prostrated themselves on each side. I could have fancied it the
triumphant approach of an Eastern despot, but for the mild and
venerable air of the amiable old Pope, who looked as if more humbled
than exalted by the pageantry around him. It might be _acting_, but if
so, it was the most admirable acting I ever saw: I wish all his
attendants had performed their parts as well. While the Pope assists
at mass, it is not etiquette for him to do anything for himself: one
Cardinal kneeling, holds the book open before him, another carries his
handkerchief, a third folds and unfolds his robe, a priest on each
side supports him whenever he rises or moves, so that he appears among
them like