ood of Rome and
Carthage, was dry when we crossed it--

"And hooting boys might dry-shod pass,
And gather pebbles from the naked ford."

While we traversed the field of battle at a slow pace, V. who had his
Livy in his pocket, read aloud his minute description of the
engagement; and we could immediately point out the different places
mentioned by the historian. The whole valley and the hills around are
now covered with olive woods; and from an olive tree which grew close
to the edge of the lake, I snatched a branch as we passed by, and
shall preserve it--an emblem of peace, from the theatre of slaughter.
The whole landscape as we looked back upon it from a hill on this side
of the Casa del Rano, was exceedingly beautiful. The lake seemed to
slumber in the sunshine; and Passignano jutting into the water, with
its castellated buildings, the two little woody islands, and the
undulating hills enclosing the whole, as if to shut it from the world,
made it look like a scene fit only to be peopled by fancy's fairest
creations, if the remembrance of its blood-stained glories had not
started up, to rob it of half its beauty. Mrs. R---- compared it to
the lake of Geneva; but in my own mind, I would not admit the
comparison. The lake of Geneva stands alone in its beauty; for there
the sublimest and the softest features of nature are united: there the
wonderful, the wild, and the beautiful, blend in one mighty scene; and
love and heroism, poetry and genius, have combined to hallow its
shores. The lake of Perugia is far more circumscribed: the scenery
around it wants grandeur and extent; though so beautiful in itself,
that if no comparison had been made, no want would have been
suggested: and on the bloody field of Thrasymene I looked with
curiosity and interest unmingled with pleasure. I have long survived
my sympathy with the fighting heroes of antiquity. All this I thought
as we slowly walked up the hill, but I was silent as usual: as Jaques
says, "I can think of as many matters as other men, but I praise God,
and make no boast of it." We arrived here too late to see any thing of
the city.

_Dec. 10th, at Terni._--The ridiculous _contre-temps_ we sometimes
meet with would be matter of amusement to me, if they did not affect
others. And in truth, as far as paying well, and scolding well, can
go, it is impossible to travel more magnificently, more _a la milor
Anglais_ than we do: but there is no controlling fate; and