without the city. As
the noble creature, serene and unresisting, paced along, followed by a
wild, ferocious-looking, and far more brutal rabble, I would have
given all I possessed to redeem him from his tormentors: but it was
in vain. As we left the city, we heard his tremendous roar of agony
and rage echo from the rocks. I stopped my ears, and was glad when we
were whirled out of hearing. The impression left upon my nerves by
this rencontre, makes me dislike to remember Spoleto: yet I believe it
is a beautiful and interesting place. Hannibal, as I recollect,
besieged this city, but was bravely repulsed. I could say much more of
the scenes and the feelings of to-day; but my pencil refuses to mark
another letter.

* * * * *

_Dec. 11th, at Civita Castellana._--I could not write a word to-night
in the salon, because I wished to listen to the conversation of two
intelligent travellers, who, arriving after us, were obliged to occupy
the same apartment. Our accommodations here are indeed deplorable
altogether. After studying the geography of my bed, and finding no
spot thereon, to which Sancho's couch of pack-saddles and pummels
would not be a bed of down in comparison, I ordered a fresh faggot on
my hearth: they brought me some ink in a gally-pot--_invisible_
ink--for I cannot see what I am writing; and I sit down to scribble,
_pour me desennuyer_.

This morning we set off to visit the Falls of Terni (la cascata di
Marmore) in two carriages and four: O such equipages!--such ratlike
steeds! such picturesque accoutrements! and such poetical looking
guides and postilions, ragged, cloaked, and whiskered!--but it was all
consistent: the wild figures harmonized with the wild landscape. We
passed a singular fortress on the top of a steep insulated rock, which
had formerly been inhabited by a band of robbers and their families,
who were with great difficulty, and after a regular siege, dislodged
by a party of soldiers, and the place dismantled. In its present
ruined state, it has a very picturesque effect; and though the
presence of the banditti would no doubt have added greatly to the
romance of the scene, on the present occasion we excused their
absence.

We visited the falls both above and below, but unfortunately we
neither saw them from the best point of view, nor at the best season.
The body of waters is sometimes ten times greater, as I was
assured--but can scarce believe it possible. The