n archbishop
can by any possibility be the head of a Christian hierarchy; but as you
come from the British embassy I will give my letters as you desire,
which will ensure your reception into every monastery which acknowledges
the supremacy of the _orthodox_ faith of the Patriarch of
Constantinople."

He then sent for his secretary, that I might give that functionary my
name and designation. The secretary accordingly appeared; and, although
there are only six letters in my name, he set it down incorrectly nearly
a dozen times, and then went away to his hole in a window, where he
wrote curious little memoranda at the Patriarch's dictation, from which
he drew up the firman which was sent me a few days afterwards, and which
I found of great service in my visits to various monasteries. As few
Protestants have been favoured with a document of this sort from the
Primate of the Greek Church, I subjoin a translation of it. It will be
perceived that it is written much in the style of the epistles of the
early patriarchs to the archbishops and bishops of their provinces. To
the requisitions contained in this firman it was incumbent upon those to
whom it was addressed to pay implicit obedience.[14]

My business being thus happily concluded with this learned personage, we
all smoked away again for a short time in tranquil silence; and then the
Universal Patriarch--for so he styles himself--clapped his hands, and in
swarmed the whole tribe of silent, bare-footed priestly followers,
bringing us sherbet in glass cups. Whilst we drank it, their reverences
held the saucer under our chins: and when we had had enough, those who
chose it wiped their lips and moustaches on a long, narrow towel, richly
embroidered at the two ends with gold and bright-coloured silks. I
prefer on these occasions my pocket-handkerchief, as the period at which
these rich towels are washed is by no means a matter of certainty. We
took our leave with the numerous bows and compliments, and went on our
way rejoicing.

My preparations for my expedition were soon made. I hired a Greek
servant, whom I intended should serve as interpreter and factotum. He
was a sharp, active man--as most Greeks are; and he had an intelligent
way of doing things, which pleased me; but he was an ugly, thin, little
fellow, and his right eye had a curious obliquity of vision, which was
not particularly calculated to inspire confidence. As nobody else was to
accompany me, I made various in