not having
returned from their daily occupations in the bazaar, and their clothes
could not be got at. At last the good-humoured young bride, seeing that
wherever I stood there was always, in a couple of minutes' time, a
puddle upon the floor, entered into an animated consultation with the
other ladies, and before long they brought me a shirt, and an immense
garment it was, like an English surplice, embroidered in gay colours
down the seams. The fair bride contributed the white capote, which I
remembered on my former visit, and a girdle. I soon donned this
extempore costume. My wet clothes were taken to a great fire, which was
lit for the purpose in another room, and I proceeded to dry my hair with
a long narrow towel, its ends heavy with gold embroidery, which one of
the ladies warmed far me, and twisted round my head in the way usual in
the Turkish bath--a method of drying the head well known in most eastern
towns, and which saves a great deal of trouble and exertion in rubbing
and brushing according to the European method.
I had ensconced myself in the corner of the divan, having nothing else
in the way of clothes beyond what I have mentioned, and was employed in
looking at one of my feet, which I had stuck out for the purpose,
admiring it in all its pristine beauty, for there were no spare slippers
to be had, when the curtain was suddenly lifted from over the door, and
my servant rushed in and told me with a troubled voice, that the
authorities of Paramathia, grieved at their remissness on the former
occasion, had presented themselves to compliment me on my arrival in
their town, and had brought me a present of tobacco or something, I
forget what, in testimony of their anxiety to show their good-will and
respect to so distinguished a personage as myself. "Don't let them in!"
I exclaimed. "Tell them I will receive them to-morrow. Say anything,
but only keep them out." But this was more than my servants could
accomplish. My friends at Corfu had sent letters explaining the
prodigious honour conferred upon the whole province of Albania by my
presence, so that nothing could stop them, and in walked a file of grave
elders in long gowns, one or two in stately fur pelisses, which I envied
them very much. They took very little notice of me, as I sat screwed up
in the corner, and all, ranging themselves upon the divan on the
opposite side of the room, sat in solemn silence, looking at me out of
the corners of their eyes, wh
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