le;
sit down and gossip with the passengers (at least those of the second
class), and, what seems rather novel and amusing to a stranger, leave
the bill to be made out and summed up by the passengers themselves. A
general account-book is left open in the cabin, in which it is
expected every traveler will set down his name and keep his own
account. At the end of the trip, the head waiter goes the rounds of
the cabin and deck, book in hand, and asks the passengers to designate
their names and sum up their accounts. Nobody seems to think of
cheating or being cheated. There is something so primitive in this way
of dealing on a public highway between two commercial cities, that I
was quite charmed with it, and have some thoughts of recommending it
to the California Steam Navigation Company. Just think what a pleasure
it would be to travel from San Francisco to Sacramento, and keep the
record of your own bitters and cigars, to say nothing of your supper
and berth! I am certain the plan would be approved by a majority of
the traveling public throughout the state.

The company on board these little Swedish steamers is generally plain,
sociable, and intelligent. Among the passengers I met many who spoke
English and German, and few who did not speak at least one language
in addition to their own. In midsummer the trip from Stockholm to
Gottenburg usually takes three days, though it is sometimes
accomplished in two. The distance is about three hundred and seventy
miles by the shortest route, through the Wettern and Wenern lakes.
Time, however, is no great object in Sweden, and a day or two more or
less makes no great difference. The beauty of the scenery, and the
diversity of land and water, render the trip one of the most agreeable
in Northern Europe, and for one I can safely say it would have pleased
me all the better had it lasted longer.

Leaving the Riddarholm Quay, our route lay for the first four hours
through the Malar Lake. The weather was delightful, and there was
scarcely a ripple on the water. Sloops and wood-boats lay floating
upon its glassy surface without perceptible motion. All along on
either side beautiful villas peeped from the umbrageous shores and
islands. Behind us, the city loomed up in all its queenly beauty, the
numerous churches and public buildings presented in majestic outline
against the sky, while the forest of shipping at the quays added a
more stirring and vital interest to the scene. As we turne