scented breeze from the neighboring hills. The Roxen Lake,
through which we next passed, is some seventeen miles long by seven
broad, and is justly regarded as one of the loveliest sheets of water
in all Sweden. The shores are neither very high nor very grand, but it
would be difficult to find any thing more charming than the rich
coloring of the rocks, their varied outlines, the luxuriance of the
forests, and the crystal clearness of the water. Villages and farms
are seen at occasional intervals in the distance, and sloops, with
their sails hanging idly against their masts, float upon the placid
surface of the lake as upon a mirror. Indeed, so perfect is the
inversion, that the eye can scarcely determine how much is real and
how much the result of optical illusion. Passing in sight of the town
of Linkoping, which lies to the left, we soon reached the entrance of
the West Gotha Canal, which here makes a direct ascent from the waters
of the Roxen of seventy-five feet. At this point there are eleven
locks, seven of which are closely connected, and the remainder
separated by short stretches of canal. Near at hand is a pretty little
village to the left, famous for its church, the Vretakloster, built in
the Gothic style in 1128, by Inge II., one of the early kings of
Sweden. While the steamer was slowly toiling through the locks, a
party of the passengers, including myself, paid a visit to the church,
and, aided by a venerable sacristan, saw all that was to be seen in
it, chief among which are the tombs of the kings and the arms of the
Douglas family, those warlike Scots who took such an active part in
the military exploits of Sweden during the Thirty Years' War. The walk
was a pleasant relief after our trip across the lake, and on our
return by a short cut to the upper locks we had a splendid view of the
wood-covered shore and glistening waters of the Roxen, now fading away
in the rich twilight. The steamer occupies about an hour and a half in
getting through the locks, and most of the passengers take advantage
of the delay to stroll about among the neighboring cottages and
gardens, and enjoy the various refreshments offered for sale at the
pavilions and tents erected near the upper extremity for the
accommodation of travelers. Fresh milk, raspberries, coffee, sweet
cakes, and ale are the principal articles furnished at these places.
Notwithstanding there was an abundant supply of luxuries on board,
every body seemed to be h