crowd of
citizens was gathered to see us land. Here again was a scene
characteristic of Norway. No hurry, no confusion, no shouting and
clamoring for passengers, but all quiet, primitive, and good-humored.
How different from a landing at New York or San Francisco! Three or
four sturdy hack-drivers stood smoking their pipes, watching the
proceedings with an air of philosophical indifference truly
refreshing. Fathers, mothers, sisters, brothers, and cousins of
various parties on board, waved their handkerchiefs and nodded
affectionately to their friends and relatives, but kept their
enthusiasm within limits till the plank was put out, when they came on
board, and kissed and hugged every body of their acquaintance in the
most affectionate manner. The officers of the customs, good easy
souls! also came on board, books in hand, and made a kind of
examination of the baggage. It was neither severe nor formal, and I
felt an absolute friendship for the chief officer on account of the
jolly manner in which he looked at me, and asked me if I had any thing
contraband in my little knapsack. I offered to open it, but with a
wave of his hand he chalked a pass upon it and I walked ashore. For
the first time in my life I here felt the inconvenience of not being
persecuted by porters and hack-drivers. The few who were on hand
seemed to be particular friends or relatives of parties on board, and
were already engaged. I walked up the queer, grass-grown old streets,
looking around in the dim twilight for a hotel; and after stumbling
into half a dozen odd-looking shops and store-houses, contrived to
make my way to the Hotel Victoria, said to be the best in Christiania.

As it is no part of my purpose to write a book on Christiania, I shall
only say that for the next three days I rambled about enjoying all the
objects of interest in this quaint northern city--the churches, the
museum, the castle, the palace, the ups and downs of the streets, the
market-places, wharves, and gardens, and the magic beauties of the
neighborhood. There is a plainness and simplicity about the people of
Christiania, a good-humor of expression, a kindliness of manner and
natural politeness that impressed me very favorably. The society is
said to be genial and cultivated. I have no doubt of the fact, though
my stay was too short to afford an opportunity of making many
acquaintances.

At the Hotel Victoria I met Ole Bull, who was on a tour through his
native land.