the top of a small
hillock. It was curious to note what unbounded faith the coolies had in
this glass. It was evident that they believed in a childlike fashion that
I could see through mountains with it. I came down with the reassuring
news that one day's march further would bring us to a fine supply of
fuel.

They cheerfully hastened to pack up the loads, and set forth with unusual
energy in the direction I had pointed out. We followed a parallel line to
the high flat plateau on the other side of the stream, the slopes of
which, in relation to the plain we were standing on, were at an obtuse
angle of about 115 deg.. The snow-covered plateau extended from S.W. to N.E.
Beyond it to the N. could be seen some high snowy peaks, in all
probability the lofty summits S.E. of Gartok. At the point where the
Luway joins the other three rivers there is a direct way to the summit of
the tableland, along which it continues across the Himahlyas by the Luway
Pass. To our right we were flanked by high rugged mountains, with an
occasional precipitous torrent. Six hours' brisk marching took us to a
sheltered nook, where a few lichens and shrubs were growing. If we had
suddenly descended into the Black Forest of Germany, or the Yosemite
Valley, with their gigantic century old trees, our delight could not have
been greater. As it was, the highest of these shrubs stood no higher than
six or seven inches from the ground, while the diameter of the largest
piece of wood we collected was smaller than that of an ordinary pencil.
With feverish activity all hands went to work to root up these plants for
fuel.

When night came, the same number of hands were busy cooking and
transferring with alarming celerity such steaming food as was available
from the different fires to the mouths of the famished coolies. Happiness
reigned in camp, and all recent hardships were forgotten.

A fresh surprise was awaiting us when we rose. Two Tibetans disguised as
beggars had come to our camp. They professed to be suffering from cold
and starvation. I gave orders that they should be properly fed and kindly
treated. On being cross-examined they confessed that they were spies sent
by the officer at Gyanema to ascertain whether a sahib had crossed the
frontier, and whether we had seen anything of him.

We had so many things to attend to in the morning, and it was so cold,
that washing had really become a nuisance, and I for my part gave it up,
at least _pro tem._ W