e since the beginning of the
war.

Petrograd is, or was then, in many respects a fine city, adorned by
numbers of imposing buildings and churches; while the view across the
half-mile-wide Neva, with its stately bridges and the famous fortress
of Peter and Paul on the far side, is very impressive. But its winter
climate seemed detestable, cold and tempestuous, accompanied by
intervals of thaw which converted even the most important streets into
unspeakable slush, while the drip from the roofs was moistening and
unpleasant. It has to be confessed that the exhibition of extravagance
apparent on all hands in the capital of an empire large portions of
which were in the hands of a foreign foe, was not altogether edifying;
the atmosphere was so different from that of Paris. Still, there were
not wanting encouraging signs. The soldiers in the streets were smart,
well-set-up, stalwart fellows garbed in excellent uniforms, and the
training carried on on the Marsova Polye (Champ de Mars) near the
Embassy struck one as carried out on excellent lines, particularly the
bayonet work.

After three days' stay we proceeded to Mohileff, leaving at night and
arriving on the following afternoon, to be put up at the hotel where
Hanbury-Williams and the other foreign missions were housed. We dined
and had luncheon at the Emperor's mess while at the Stavka, as always
did the heads of the various foreign missions. Now that the glories of
the House of Romanoff have suffered eclipse consequent upon the
terrible end of Nicholas II. and his family, interest in it has no
doubt to a great extent evaporated. But it may perhaps be mentioned
here that our practice of referring to the Autocrat of All the Russias
as the "Tsar" is incorrect, and the custom indeed seems to have been
almost peculiar to this country. You never heard the terms "Tsar" and
"Tsaritza" employed in Russia, not, at all events, in French; they
were always spoken of as "L'Empereur" and "L'Imperatrice," and in the
churches it was always "Imperator." On the other hand, one did hear of
the "Tsarevitch," although he was generally spoken of in French as "Le
Prince Heritier"--rather a mouthful. How we arrived at that
extraordinary misspelling, "Czar" (which is unpronounceable in
English), goodness only knows.

The Emperor and his personal staff occupied a couple of fine
provincial government buildings, which Davoust had made his
headquarters at the time of the battle of Mohileff in 1812