track of the trade wind, which we
ought to pick up, according to the charts and sailing directions,
about 500 miles to the northward and westward of this place. I have
been trying to persuade Tom to steam out five or six hundred miles, so
that we may make a quick passage and economise our time as much as
possible, but he is anxious to do _the whole_ voyage under sail, and
we are therefore taking very little coal on board, in order to be in
the best trim. If we do not pick up a wind, however, there is no
knowing how long we may lollop about. I suppose till we are short of
water and fresh provisions, when the fires will be lighted and we
shall steam away to the nearest island--uninhabited, we will hope, or
at any rate peopled by friendly natives, which is rather the
exception than the rule in the south-east corner of the Low
Archipelago. There we shall fill up with fresh water, bananas,
bread-fruit, and perhaps a wild hog or two, and resume our voyage to
Tahiti. But this is the least favourable view of the matter, and we
must hope to fall in with the trades soon, and that they will blow
strong and true.

The island of Juan Fernandez now belongs to the Chilian government,
but is let on a long lease to a man who, they say here, is somewhat of
a robber. He was very desirous that we should give him a passage in
the yacht, and another man wanted to come too, with some pointers, to
show us the best spots for game, goats, turtle, crayfish, and
sea-fish, with all of which the place abounds. Some cattle have also
been introduced, and the island is much frequented by whalers, who go
there for fresh provisions and water. There is nothing particular to
be seen, however, and the scenery of the island is not remarkable; at
least, so people who have been there tell us, and the photographs I
have bought quite confirm their report. Admiral Simpson, who stayed
there once for a fortnight, told us a good deal about the place, and
strongly recommended us not to go there unless we had plenty of time
to spare, as we should not be repaid for our trouble, which would
probably only result in the dissipation of all our childish illusions.

Our first step on landing this morning was to go to the Consul's to
post our letters. By the bye, I hope people in England will appreciate
them, for they cost between nine and ten pounds to send home. For our
outward letters, although prepaid in England, we had to pay over eight
pounds before we were allowed t