e sea. It comprises about 500
houses of Afghan settlers, a colony of Jews and a small bazaar, set in the
midst of a waste of ruins and many acres of debris. Entering by the west
(or Akcha) gate, one passes under three arches, which are probably the
remnants of a former Jama Masjid. The outer walls (mostly in utter
disrepair) are about 6-1/2 to 7 m. in perimeter, and on the south-eastern
borders are set high on a mound or rampart, indicating a Mongol origin. The
fort and citadel to the north-east are built well above the town on a
barren mound and are walled and moated. There is, however, little left but
the remains of a few pillars. The Masjid Sabz, with its green-tiled dome,
is said to be the tomb of a Khwaja, Abul Narsi Parsar. Nothing but the
arched entrance remains of the Madrasa, which is traditionally not very
old. The earlier Buddhist constructions have proved more durable than the
Mahommedan buildings. The Top-i-Rustam is 50 yds. in diameter at the base
and 30 yds. at the top, circular and about 50 ft. high. Four circular
vaults are sunk in the interior and four passages have been pierced below
from the outside, which probably lead to them. The base of the building is
constructed of sun-dried bricks about 2 ft. square and 4 or 5 in. thick.
The Takht-i-Rustam is wedge-shaped in plan, with uneven sides. It is
apparently built of pise mud (_i.e._ mud mixed with straw and puddled). It
is possible that in these ruins we may recognize the Nan Vihara of the
Chinese traveller Hsuan Tsang. There are the remains of many other topes
(or stupas) in the neighbourhood. The mounds of ruins on the road to
Mazar-i-Sharif probably represent the site of a city yet older than those
on which stands the modern Balkh. The town is garrisoned by a few hundred
kasidars, the regular troops of Afghan Turkestan being cantoned at
Takhtapul, near Mazar-i-Sharif. The gardens to the north-east contain a
caravanserai, which is fairly well kept and comfortable. It forms one side
of a courtyard, which is shaded by a group of magnificent chenar trees.

The antiquity and greatness of the place are recognized by the native
populations, who speak of it as the _Mother of Cities_. Its foundation is
mythically ascribed to Kaiomurs, the Persian Romulus; and it is at least
certain that, at a very early date, it was the rival of Ecbatana, Nineveh
and Babylon. For a long time the city and country was the central seat of
the Zoroastrian religion, the founder of