e played by hand. Most of the churches in this country have them.
Our Guards in marching into Alkmaar were surprised and gratified in
hearing the church bells strike up "God Save the King." There are
several good churches in the town, and once all were decorated with the
works of Rubens, which Napoleon carried off. I should, however, be
perfectly satisfied with a selection from the remainder. I saw a Vandyck
on the subject of our Saviour recommending the Virgin Mary to St. John,
which was incomparable; it quite haunts me at this moment, and, however
horrible the effect of the bleeding figure on the Cross, I do not wish
to lose the impression. The Dutch have carried the art of carving in
wood to a most extraordinary pitch of perfection. I am surprised it has
not been more spoken of; some of their pulpits are really quite
marvellous. Religion increases and, I think, improves. There is less
mummery here than at Aix and some other places I have lately seen, with
the exception of a few little Saviours in powdered wigs and gilt satin
and muslin frocks, and a very singular figure as large as life, supposed
to represent the deposition in the holy sepulchre, which was covered by
a shroud of worsted gauze, studded over with enormous artificial flowers
and tinsel like a Lady's court dress.

Wherever we went, at whatever hour, Mass was performing to good
congregations. The women here all dress in long black shawls, or,
rather, hooded wrappers, which, as they knelt before their confessional
boxes, were extremely appropriate and solemn. The English have a church
here for the garrison; it is simplicity itself. They have even removed
several fine pictures, the rooms having been a sort of museum--the
Vandyck I alluded to among the rest....

In our morning's tour we, of course, visited the celebrated basons for
the men-of-war. "Still harping upon these ships," I can fancy you
exclaiming; "when will he have done with them?" You must bear it
patiently. It was on account of these said basons, in a great measure,
that I came to Antwerp, so you must endure their birth, parentage, and
education.

There are two Basons, one calculated for 16, the other for 30 sail of
the line; they are simple excavations. Nature never thought of such a
thing, and gave no helping hand. It was Napoleon's work from first to
last; the labour and expense must have been enormous. They open by dock
gates immediately into the Scheldt, from whence each ship can proceed