broke our necks in running downstairs, and leaving the Dutch
guide to take care of himself, we found our way into the Organ loft, to
the visible annoyance of the performer, who, seeing we were strangers,
thought himself sure of his eight florins, but his duty and the Church
service compelled him to go on, and he shook his head and growled in
vain at our guide, who at this time appeared, intimating that he should
take us away, as having no business there, but in vain. I heard the
Organ, counted the 68 stops, examined at my leisure the stupendous
instrument, while he was under the necessity of continuing his
involuntary voluntary, till my curiosity was satisfied. We took up our
residence at an Hotel _in the Wood_, so-called from being the place of
promenade and site of the new palace, but _ci-devant_ residence of Mrs.
Hope, and, in fact, from being also a respectable wood of tolerably
sized trees.

[Illustration: PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM.

_To face p. 230._]

By the best chance in the world here, too, we fell in with a fete on the
river. Some great Burgomaster had married himself, and all the world of
Haarlem came forth in boats, decorated with colors, and bands of music
in procession up the river to pass in review before the Princess of
Orange, an elderly-looking woman. She sat in the window of a summer
house overlooking the river, and the festive procession assembled before
her. It was a lovely evening, and nothing could be more gay and
animating than the scene. We this morning at 6 quitted Haarlem in the
boat in which I am now writing as comfortably as in my own room, the
motion scarcely perceptible, about 5 miles an hour; by good luck few
passengers, and those above looking at a man who is at this incessant
Dutch employment of painting. The boat is as clean as a china dish, but
possibly it may not have been painted since last week. Edward has just
daubed his hand by looking out of the window. I am rather puzzled in
getting on here. Very little French is spoken; among the common people
none, and we converse by signs.

...Their money, too, is puzzling beyond measure. My stock consists of 5
franc pieces (French), upon which, exclusive of their not always
understanding what they are, there is a discount; this, of course, adds
to the confusion, and now I despair of understanding the infinite
variety of square, hexagon, round coins of copper and silver and base
metal which pass through my hands.

We passed tw